Loans & Debt
When a High APR and a Soft Resale Value Make Leasing Cheaper
A $48,000 car, $2,000 down, financed at 11.5% over 60 months, compared against a lease at $380 a month with $1,000 due at signing — over a 60-month horizon, with the bought car worth $15,000 at the end. This is the shape of the problem where leasing wins, and it is worth understanding why.
Saved by the cheaper option
$22,550
Net cost of buying
Net cost of leasing
Loan monthly payment
Lease monthly payment
Compare scenarios
Pin these figures as scenario A, then change any input above to see the difference.
Side by side
Leasing costs less over 5 years, after subtracting the equity left in the bought car. A second lease at the same payment is assumed after the first one ends.
| Scenario | Buying | Leasing Lower cost |
|---|---|---|
| Cash up front | $2,000 | $2,000 |
| Monthly payment | $1,012 | $380 |
| Payments over the horizon | $60,700 | $22,800 |
| Disposition fees | $0 | $350 |
| Equity retained at the end | $15,000 | $0 |
| Net out-of-pocket cost | $47,700 | $25,150 |
Breakdown
| Cheaper over this horizon | Leasing |
|---|---|
| Monthly payment difference | $632 |
| Equity retained — buying | $15,000 |
| Equity retained — leasing | $0 |
net of the equity left in the car you bought
How this is calculated
Net out-of-pocket cost over one common horizon, equity subtracted
- Both options are measured over the SAME horizon you enter. Buying is the down payment plus the loan payments made within that horizon, minus the car's value at the end less anything still owed on the loan.
- If the loan term ends before the horizon, payments STOP at the end of the term — no phantom payments are charged for the months you own the car outright.
- If the lease term is shorter than the horizon, a SECOND LEASE is assumed at the same monthly payment and the same cash at signing. Real lease terms change between contracts.
- The car's value at the horizon is YOUR estimate, not a market quote. It is the most uncertain input on the page and it is usually what decides the verdict.
- No sales tax, registration or licence fee is modelled, on either side. These vary by jurisdiction and no verified rate is used anywhere in this calculation.
- No mileage overage, no wear-and-tear charge, no early-termination penalty and no difference in maintenance, insurance or fuel between the two options is included.
- Figures are estimates for comparing two financing structures. They are not a quote, not an offer from any lender or manufacturer, and not financial advice.
Two inputs, pulling in the same direction
The parent calculator's own defaults land on buying, and so do most sets of inputs a reader types in, because buying ends with an asset and leasing ends with a handshake. This page exists because that is a tendency and not a law, and because the two inputs that overturn it are the two people most often accept without negotiating.
The first is the financing rate. An 11.5% APR is not exotic; it is what a thin credit file or a long term on a used car can produce, and it is applied to the whole financed balance for the whole of the loan. Interest is the part of a car payment that buys nothing. It does not become equity, it does not come back at resale, and unlike depreciation it is not shared with the leasing side of the comparison in any form the quote makes visible. Raise the APR far enough and the buying column simply stops being cheap, no matter how sound the rest of the plan is.
The second is what the car is worth when the horizon ends. Buying is only cheaper because of the value still parked in your driveway, and $15,000 left from a $48,000 car after five years is a real outcome for plenty of vehicles rather than a pessimistic one. The equity row is doing all of the work in the buying column, and when that row shrinks, the column has nothing else holding it up. Move the value at the horizon down and watch the verdict; it is the single most sensitive input on the page, which is why it is an input at all instead of a number the calculator picks for you.
Put those two together and the comparison flips. The lease side of this scenario is also unusually lean — a small amount due at signing and a monthly payment well under what the financed car costs each month — so the gap is not marginal. What the page prints is not a claim that leasing is better; it is the arithmetic for these ten numbers, and the arithmetic is entirely a consequence of the ten numbers you can change one at a time.
Change any of them and the answer is allowed to change with it. That is the point of entering your own quote rather than reading a rule of thumb: the rule of thumb is a summary of the average case, and nobody signs the average case.
Cheaper is not the same as better, and the page will not pretend otherwise
The verdict here is a cost verdict over one stated horizon, and it comes with two conditions attached that the numbers cannot argue you out of.
The first is that the lease term is shorter than the horizon, so the calculation assumes a second lease at the same monthly payment and the same amount due at signing once the first one ends. That is the ordinary simplifying assumption, and it is a genuine assumption rather than a footnote. Lease pricing is set at signing against conditions in force at signing, and nothing in this repository can tell you what a comparable quote will look like years from now. If you think the second quote will be worse, raise the monthly lease payment and read the answer again — the calculator is built to be argued with on exactly this point.
The second is the thing the winning column does not contain. At the end of this horizon the leasing path leaves you with no car, and the comparison table states that as an equity of zero rather than hiding it. The saving is real and so is the empty driveway; whether that trade is worth making is not an arithmetic question, and a calculator that answered it would be overreaching. What the calculator can tell you is the price of the alternative, which is precisely the gap it prints.
There is also a horizon effect worth naming, because it is where readers most often mislead themselves. This comparison stops at the month you entered. A financed car that is paid off and kept for several more years afterwards costs almost nothing per month beyond running costs, while the leasing path keeps producing payments for as long as you keep leasing. If your honest answer to "how long do I keep a car" is longer than the horizon on this page, lengthen the horizon before you trust the verdict. The input is there for that reason, and the answer is allowed to move.
The costs that never appear on the quote
The monthly payment is the number the dealership wants you to compare, and it is the number that leaves the most out. The costs people are surprised by later are almost all on the leasing side, and they share a family resemblance: none of them are charged while you are driving, and all of them arrive at once when you hand the car back.
Mileage is the first. A lease sets an annual allowance, and every mile beyond it carries a per-mile charge that is agreed at signing and collected at the end. The rate looks trivial written down. It stops looking trivial when it is multiplied by a few thousand miles across a three-year term, and it is charged whether or not the extra driving affected what the car is actually worth. Before you sign anything, look up how far you genuinely drove last year rather than how far you think you drive. If you are close to the limit, buying the extra miles in advance is normally cheaper than paying the overage, and if you are far above it, the real comparison is not the one on the quote.
Wear and tear is the second, and it is more subjective. Returned cars are inspected against a standard for what counts as normal, and kerbed alloys, a windscreen chip, a scuff on a bumper or a stain on a seat can each become a line item. None of these would cost you anything on a car you own, because you would simply live with them or fix them when convenient. On a lease they are converted into cash at the moment of return, alongside the disposition fee that is charged for the privilege of taking the car back at all. This calculator includes the disposition fee explicitly, once for each lease you actually complete within the horizon, so a horizon that spans two leases carries two of them.
There is one more asymmetry worth naming, which is what happens when your circumstances change. Getting out of a lease early is generally expensive and awkward, because the contract is written around a fixed term. Selling a car you own is neither: you list it, you take the price, you pay off whatever remains on the loan. Neither this nor the wear-and-tear risk is modelled in the numbers above — they cannot be, without inventing figures. They belong on the leasing side of the ledger anyway, and you should weigh them there.
The answer mostly depends on how long you keep cars
Strip away the fees and the jargon and one variable does most of the work: how long you keep a car before you replace it.
If you replace your car every three years without fail, leasing and buying converge, and leasing can genuinely come out ahead. You are paying for the steepest part of the depreciation curve either way, and the lease at least spares you the trouble and uncertainty of selling. If you keep cars for eight or ten years, buying wins and it is not close. The loan ends, the payments stop entirely, and every year after that you drive a car that costs you nothing but fuel, insurance and maintenance while a leaseholder is still writing a cheque every month, forever. Push the horizon on this page out past your loan term and you will watch that effect appear in the numbers.
So set the horizon to the truth about yourself rather than to the term of the quote in front of you. Be honest about it. Someone who has traded every car at three years is unlikely to hold the next one for a decade, and someone who drives cars into the ground should not be modelling a five-year comparison. That single input moves the verdict more than any fee discussed on this page.
And when the numbers come out close, take that seriously as an answer in itself. Two figures within a few hundred dollars of each other, built on a resale value that is a guess, are not distinguishable. At that point decide on the things the arithmetic cannot hold: whether you want to own something at the end, whether an unpredictable repair bill would be a problem, whether you drive far enough to make a mileage cap a constant irritation, and whether you would rather have a newer car more often or no payment at all in year six.
Frequently asked questions
Does a high APR always make leasing the cheaper option?
No. The financing rate is one of ten inputs, and it competes against everything else on the page. A high rate on a car that holds its value well can still lose to leasing on a small margin, or still win, depending on the down payments, the monthly lease quote, the disposition fee and the horizon. What is reliable is the direction: raising the rate moves the comparison toward leasing, because interest is the one part of the payment that buys nothing you keep. The size of that movement is what the calculator exists to measure, and it is different for every quote.
Why does the page keep showing an equity row when leasing wins?
Because the row is the reason the two columns can be compared at all. The cost of buying is the cash that left your hands minus the value of the car still in your driveway, so the equity line is part of the buying total rather than a bonus printed next to it. Showing it when leasing wins is if anything more important than showing it when buying wins: it is the clearest statement of what the cheaper option in this scenario does not give you. Leasing's equity is zero, and that zero is a real number in the comparison rather than a blank.
Is leasing cheaper than buying?
Over a short horizon it often is, and over a long one it almost never is. The reason is that a lease payment covers only the depreciation you use plus interest, so it is smaller month for month, but it never stops. Buying costs more per month and then stops entirely when the loan ends, and it leaves you holding a car you can sell. Set the horizon on this page to how long you actually keep a car and the comparison will answer the question for your situation rather than in the abstract.
What is a money factor and how do I turn it into an interest rate?
A money factor is how the interest portion of a lease is quoted: a small decimal such as 0.00275 rather than a percentage. Multiply it by 2,400 and you get the equivalent annual percentage rate, so 0.00275 is the same cost of borrowing as 6.6% APR. The conversion is exact arithmetic, not an approximation. Do it before you compare a lease against a loan, because a money factor is deliberately not in the same units as the APR printed beside it, and that difference in units is where an expensive lease hides.
Why does the calculator subtract the car's value from the cost of buying?
Because at the end of the horizon you still own the car and you can sell it, so that value is not a cost you incurred. Adding up loan payments without subtracting it charges you for the vehicle and then pretends it vanished, which overstates the cost of buying by many thousands of dollars and makes leasing look far better than it is. The equity line is shown explicitly on both sides of the comparison, next to a leasing figure of zero, because that contrast is the actual trade you are being asked to price.
What happens if my lease is shorter than the comparison horizon?
The calculator assumes you sign another lease at the same monthly payment and the same cash at signing, and it charges a disposition fee for each lease you actually complete. That is the standard simplifying assumption, and it is stated plainly because it matters: comparing a three-year lease against a five-year loan without accounting for those extra two years would compare five years of driving against three. Real lease rates change between contracts, so treat the second cycle as an estimate rather than a quote you have been given.
Are mileage limits and wear-and-tear charges included in these numbers?
No, and they are the costs people most often forget. A lease caps your annual mileage and charges a per-mile fee beyond it, collected in a lump at return. Returned cars are also inspected against a normal-wear standard, so kerbed wheels, glass chips and interior damage can each become a charge, none of which would cost you anything on a car you own. Both fall on the leasing side of the ledger. Check your genuine annual mileage before signing, and treat the figures here as a floor for the leasing cost rather than a ceiling.
Should I put a large down payment on a lease?
Usually not. A cap cost reduction lowers the monthly payment by prepaying part of the depreciation, but it buys you no ownership whatsoever. If the car is stolen or written off, the insurance settlement is based on the vehicle's value rather than on the cash you contributed, so without gap coverage that prepayment can simply disappear. Gap insurance, which pays the difference between the settlement and the amount still owed under the contract, is worth treating as close to mandatory on a lease rather than as an optional add-on.
What does this calculator deliberately leave out?
Sales tax and registration, which vary by jurisdiction and are not modelled anywhere here; mileage overage and wear-and-tear charges; any difference in maintenance, insurance or repair costs between a newer leased car and an ageing owned one; and early termination penalties. The resale value is your estimate and nobody can know it in advance. Everything the model does assume is listed in the assumptions block above the article, so you can see exactly which simplifications the comparison rests on.
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