Skip to main content

Loans & Debt

When an 84-Month Loan Still Owes Money at the Four-Year Mark

A $55,000 car with $6,000 down on an 84-month loan at 8.75%, against a 24-month lease at $640 a month with $4,000 due at signing — measured over 48 months. The loan is years from done, the lease has to be signed a second time, and the comparison has to carry both facts.

Your figures

$
The negotiated price, not the sticker
months
Months both options are measured over — set it to how long you keep a car
%
The annual rate on the auto loan
$
The payment on the lease quote
$
What the car you bought is worth at the end — your equity
Advanced assumptions$6,000 · 84 months · $4,000 · 24 months · $450
$
Cash you put down to finance
months
Months of loan payments
$
Cap cost reduction and any due-at-signing cash
months
Months per lease — a shorter term than the horizon means a second lease
$
Charged each time you hand a leased car back

Saved by the cheaper option

$2,611

Leasing is cheaper by $2,611 over this horizon, but you own nothing at the end of it.

Net cost of buying

$42,231

Net cost of leasing

$39,620

Loan monthly payment

$782

Lease monthly payment

$640
Leasing costs less over 4 years, after subtracting the equity left in the bought car. A second lease at the same payment is assumed after the first one ends.

Compare scenarios

Pin these figures as scenario A, then change any input above to see the difference.

Side by side

Leasing costs less over 4 years, after subtracting the equity left in the bought car. A second lease at the same payment is assumed after the first one ends.

ScenarioBuyingLeasing Lower cost
Cash up front$6,000$8,000
Monthly payment$782$640
Payments over the horizon$37,544$30,720
Disposition fees$0$900
Equity retained at the end$1,313$0
Net out-of-pocket cost$42,231$39,620

Breakdown

Cheaper over this horizonLeasing
Monthly payment difference$142
Equity retained — buying$1,313
Equity retained — leasing$0
Ad

net of the equity left in the car you bought

How this is calculated

Net out-of-pocket cost over one common horizon, equity subtracted

  • Both options are measured over the SAME horizon you enter. Buying is the down payment plus the loan payments made within that horizon, minus the car's value at the end less anything still owed on the loan.
  • If the loan term ends before the horizon, payments STOP at the end of the term — no phantom payments are charged for the months you own the car outright.
  • If the lease term is shorter than the horizon, a SECOND LEASE is assumed at the same monthly payment and the same cash at signing. Real lease terms change between contracts.
  • The car's value at the horizon is YOUR estimate, not a market quote. It is the most uncertain input on the page and it is usually what decides the verdict.
  • No sales tax, registration or licence fee is modelled, on either side. These vary by jurisdiction and no verified rate is used anywhere in this calculation.
  • No mileage overage, no wear-and-tear charge, no early-termination penalty and no difference in maintenance, insurance or fuel between the two options is included.
  • Figures are estimates for comparing two financing structures. They are not a quote, not an offer from any lender or manufacturer, and not financial advice.

Neither column reaches a natural ending, so the horizon has to do the work

Comparing a long loan against a short lease is the situation the horizon input was built for, because there is no month at which both paths are simultaneously at rest. Line them up over their own terms and you are not comparing anything: one column would cover seven years of ownership and the other two years of driving.

This page fixes the window at four years and carries both sides to it. On the buying side, that means a substantial balance is still outstanding when the comparison closes, and it is subtracted from the car's value before anything is counted as equity. An 84-month term at 8.75% on a $55,000 car spends a long time paying interest before it makes real progress on principal, which is precisely why the monthly payment is as approachable as it is. The payment is low because the debt lasts, and the debt lasting is what shows up in the equity row four years in.

On the leasing side, the horizon outlives the lease, so a second contract is assumed at the same monthly payment and the same cash due at signing. That has consequences the monthly quote does not display. The amount due at signing is paid twice rather than once, and the disposition fee is charged each time a leased car goes back, so both of those items appear in the total at a multiple of what the reader saw on the first quote. The comparison table lists cash up front and disposition fees as their own rows because they behave differently from the monthly payment: they scale with the number of contracts, not with the number of months.

So the honest summary of this scenario is that both columns are being measured mid-flight, and both are more expensive than their headline monthly figures imply. The page's job is to make the two mid-flight positions comparable, which is what one shared horizon and one net-cost row accomplish. It is a harder comparison than the tidy case where everything ends on the same day, and it is also the more common one.

If four years is not really your window, change it. The whole calculation moves with that input, and it is the input most worth being honest about.

Ad

Two contracts on one side, one long debt on the other

The renewal assumption is worth pulling apart, because it is the largest piece of guesswork this page contains and readers are entitled to know exactly where it sits.

The calculator assumes the second lease costs what the first one cost: same monthly payment, same cash due at signing, same term. That is a modelling choice made for a good reason — there is no defensible way to forecast a quote that has not been written — but it is not a prediction, and it should not be read as one. If you have reason to think the second contract lands somewhere else, the page gives you a direct way to say so. Raise the monthly lease payment, or the lease down payment, until the leasing column reflects the renewal you actually expect, and read the verdict again. That is a better use of this calculator than accepting the default and treating it as a forecast.

Meanwhile the buying column carries a different kind of exposure. Nothing about the loan is uncertain — the rate, the term and the payment are contractual — but the position it leaves you in at the horizon depends entirely on the car's value on that day. A long term and a shorter horizon is the combination that maximises how much that single estimate matters, because the outstanding balance is large and the value is what has to cover it. Try lowering the value at the horizon by a few thousand and watch how much further the net cost moves than the same change would move it on a shorter loan.

Put plainly: the leasing side of this scenario is uncertain about a future price, and the buying side is uncertain about a future value, and the calculator refuses to pretend either uncertainty away. What it does instead is put both on one horizon, name each assumption where it is made, and leave every one of the ten inputs open so you can test how much any of them is actually deciding.

The costs that never appear on the quote

The monthly payment is the number the dealership wants you to compare, and it is the number that leaves the most out. The costs people are surprised by later are almost all on the leasing side, and they share a family resemblance: none of them are charged while you are driving, and all of them arrive at once when you hand the car back.

Mileage is the first. A lease sets an annual allowance, and every mile beyond it carries a per-mile charge that is agreed at signing and collected at the end. The rate looks trivial written down. It stops looking trivial when it is multiplied by a few thousand miles across a three-year term, and it is charged whether or not the extra driving affected what the car is actually worth. Before you sign anything, look up how far you genuinely drove last year rather than how far you think you drive. If you are close to the limit, buying the extra miles in advance is normally cheaper than paying the overage, and if you are far above it, the real comparison is not the one on the quote.

Wear and tear is the second, and it is more subjective. Returned cars are inspected against a standard for what counts as normal, and kerbed alloys, a windscreen chip, a scuff on a bumper or a stain on a seat can each become a line item. None of these would cost you anything on a car you own, because you would simply live with them or fix them when convenient. On a lease they are converted into cash at the moment of return, alongside the disposition fee that is charged for the privilege of taking the car back at all. This calculator includes the disposition fee explicitly, once for each lease you actually complete within the horizon, so a horizon that spans two leases carries two of them.

There is one more asymmetry worth naming, which is what happens when your circumstances change. Getting out of a lease early is generally expensive and awkward, because the contract is written around a fixed term. Selling a car you own is neither: you list it, you take the price, you pay off whatever remains on the loan. Neither this nor the wear-and-tear risk is modelled in the numbers above — they cannot be, without inventing figures. They belong on the leasing side of the ledger anyway, and you should weigh them there.

The answer mostly depends on how long you keep cars

Strip away the fees and the jargon and one variable does most of the work: how long you keep a car before you replace it.

If you replace your car every three years without fail, leasing and buying converge, and leasing can genuinely come out ahead. You are paying for the steepest part of the depreciation curve either way, and the lease at least spares you the trouble and uncertainty of selling. If you keep cars for eight or ten years, buying wins and it is not close. The loan ends, the payments stop entirely, and every year after that you drive a car that costs you nothing but fuel, insurance and maintenance while a leaseholder is still writing a cheque every month, forever. Push the horizon on this page out past your loan term and you will watch that effect appear in the numbers.

So set the horizon to the truth about yourself rather than to the term of the quote in front of you. Be honest about it. Someone who has traded every car at three years is unlikely to hold the next one for a decade, and someone who drives cars into the ground should not be modelling a five-year comparison. That single input moves the verdict more than any fee discussed on this page.

And when the numbers come out close, take that seriously as an answer in itself. Two figures within a few hundred dollars of each other, built on a resale value that is a guess, are not distinguishable. At that point decide on the things the arithmetic cannot hold: whether you want to own something at the end, whether an unpredictable repair bill would be a problem, whether you drive far enough to make a mileage cap a constant irritation, and whether you would rather have a newer car more often or no payment at all in year six.

Frequently asked questions

Is a second lease at the same payment a realistic assumption?

It is a simplifying assumption rather than a forecast, and the page says so wherever it applies. Lease pricing is set at signing from the conditions in force at signing, and nothing here can tell you what a comparable contract will cost years from now. The assumption keeps the two columns measurable over one shared horizon, which is the only way the comparison means anything. If you expect the renewal to be more expensive, the correct response is to raise the monthly lease payment or the lease down payment until the leasing column matches what you expect, then read the verdict again.

Why does a long loan term make the monthly payment so much easier?

Because the same principal is spread over more months, and at the start most of each payment is interest rather than principal. The monthly figure falls, the total interest paid over the life of the loan rises, and the balance comes down slowly for years. That combination is fine if you keep the car until the loan is finished and well beyond. It is expensive if you sell part-way through, because the balance still owed is subtracted from whatever the car is worth on that day. The equity row on this page is where the two effects meet.

Is leasing cheaper than buying?

Over a short horizon it often is, and over a long one it almost never is. The reason is that a lease payment covers only the depreciation you use plus interest, so it is smaller month for month, but it never stops. Buying costs more per month and then stops entirely when the loan ends, and it leaves you holding a car you can sell. Set the horizon on this page to how long you actually keep a car and the comparison will answer the question for your situation rather than in the abstract.

What is a money factor and how do I turn it into an interest rate?

A money factor is how the interest portion of a lease is quoted: a small decimal such as 0.00275 rather than a percentage. Multiply it by 2,400 and you get the equivalent annual percentage rate, so 0.00275 is the same cost of borrowing as 6.6% APR. The conversion is exact arithmetic, not an approximation. Do it before you compare a lease against a loan, because a money factor is deliberately not in the same units as the APR printed beside it, and that difference in units is where an expensive lease hides.

Why does the calculator subtract the car's value from the cost of buying?

Because at the end of the horizon you still own the car and you can sell it, so that value is not a cost you incurred. Adding up loan payments without subtracting it charges you for the vehicle and then pretends it vanished, which overstates the cost of buying by many thousands of dollars and makes leasing look far better than it is. The equity line is shown explicitly on both sides of the comparison, next to a leasing figure of zero, because that contrast is the actual trade you are being asked to price.

What happens if my lease is shorter than the comparison horizon?

The calculator assumes you sign another lease at the same monthly payment and the same cash at signing, and it charges a disposition fee for each lease you actually complete. That is the standard simplifying assumption, and it is stated plainly because it matters: comparing a three-year lease against a five-year loan without accounting for those extra two years would compare five years of driving against three. Real lease rates change between contracts, so treat the second cycle as an estimate rather than a quote you have been given.

Are mileage limits and wear-and-tear charges included in these numbers?

No, and they are the costs people most often forget. A lease caps your annual mileage and charges a per-mile fee beyond it, collected in a lump at return. Returned cars are also inspected against a normal-wear standard, so kerbed wheels, glass chips and interior damage can each become a charge, none of which would cost you anything on a car you own. Both fall on the leasing side of the ledger. Check your genuine annual mileage before signing, and treat the figures here as a floor for the leasing cost rather than a ceiling.

Should I put a large down payment on a lease?

Usually not. A cap cost reduction lowers the monthly payment by prepaying part of the depreciation, but it buys you no ownership whatsoever. If the car is stolen or written off, the insurance settlement is based on the vehicle's value rather than on the cash you contributed, so without gap coverage that prepayment can simply disappear. Gap insurance, which pays the difference between the settlement and the amount still owed under the contract, is worth treating as close to mandatory on a lease rather than as an optional add-on.

What does this calculator deliberately leave out?

Sales tax and registration, which vary by jurisdiction and are not modelled anywhere here; mileage overage and wear-and-tear charges; any difference in maintenance, insurance or repair costs between a newer leased car and an ageing owned one; and early termination penalties. The resale value is your estimate and nobody can know it in advance. Everything the model does assume is listed in the assumptions block above the article, so you can see exactly which simplifications the comparison rests on.

Related calculators