Investing calculators
How much does $500 a month grow to in 30 years?
No starting pot, $500 at the start of every month, a 7% annual return compounded monthly, for 30 years. The balance below is computed from exactly those inputs, with the total you paid in and the simple-interest comparison next to it.
Projected balance after 30 years
$613,544
Total contributed
Total gain
Compounding vs simple interest
Compare scenarios
Pin these figures as scenario A, then change any input above to see the difference.
Growth year by year
| Year | Contributed | Balance | Gain |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | $6,000 | $6,232 | +$232 |
| 2 | $12,000 | $12,915 | +$915 |
| 3 | $18,000 | $20,082 | +$2,082 |
| 4 | $24,000 | $27,766 | +$3,766 |
| 5 | $30,000 | $36,005 | +$6,005 |
| 6 | $36,000 | $44,841 | +$8,841 |
| 7 | $42,000 | $54,314 | +$12,314 |
| 8 | $48,000 | $64,473 | +$16,473 |
| 9 | $54,000 | $75,367 | +$21,367 |
| 10 | $60,000 | $87,047 | +$27,047 |
Before tax and fees. Deposits are made at the start of each month. Returns are assumed constant; real markets vary year to year.
How this is calculated
Compound interest with monthly deposits
- Deposits are made at the start of each month, then one month of growth is applied to the whole balance.
- The annual return is constant for the whole period.
- Results are before tax and fees, in future (nominal) money.
- Monthly compounding uses the annual rate divided by 12; yearly and daily compounding are converted to the equivalent monthly rate.
Saving $500 a month when you are starting from zero
Most people who search for this question are not sitting on a lump sum. They have a paycheck, a rough idea of what they can set aside, and a long stretch of working years ahead. This page takes that situation literally. The initial amount is zero, so every dollar in the final balance traces back to one of the monthly deposits or to growth earned on them. Five hundred dollars a month is a common target because it is large enough to matter and small enough to keep up through ordinary years, and thirty years is roughly the distance between a first serious job and the age many people start thinking about drawing on their savings.
The calculator walks through those thirty years one month at a time. At the start of each month it adds $500, then applies one month of growth to the whole balance: the 7% annual return divided by twelve, because the compounding setting is monthly. The very first deposit therefore earns growth for the full thirty years, while the last one, made at the start of the final month, earns a single month. Every deposit in between sits somewhere on that ladder. That is why the chart is not a straight line. The lower band is what you have paid in, rising by the same amount every year; the area above it is growth, and because growth is earned on earlier growth as well as on deposits, that area widens year after year.
Read the headline as the answer to a precise question: if the return averaged exactly 7% and you never missed a month, where would thirty years of $500 deposits end up before tax, fees and inflation. Real markets do not deliver the same return each year, so treat it as one point in a range rather than a forecast. The year-by-year table below the chart lets you check any single year, and the share link opens the main calculator with these same inputs filled in so you can adjust them there.
Why the starting amount is zero on this page
The main calculator opens with a $10,000 starting amount, which blurs a question many savers actually have: what does the habit alone produce. Setting the initial amount to zero isolates it. Everything above the contributions band in the chart comes from the deposits compounding on themselves. To see how much a head start would change the picture, type a starting amount into the first field, or pin this result on the comparison card and then change the years to see what starting five years later would cost.
Compound interest compared with simple interest
Simple interest pays a return only on the money you put in, never on earlier returns. The calculator works out that alternative for the same deposits so you can see what compounding itself adds. Your initial amount earns the stated rate once per year for the whole period, and each monthly deposit earns the same rate for the months it has been in the account, with nothing reinvested. The card that compares the two shows the simple-interest total and the difference between it and the compounded balance. Early on the two lines sit almost on top of each other, because the returns that could earn returns are still small. The gap opens slowly and then quickly, and in the chart it is the widening space between the curve and the straight line of contributions. That gap is the reason time in the account matters so much: most of it appears in the last third of a long period.
The rule of 72 and its exact form
The rule of 72 is a mental shortcut for doubling time: divide 72 by the annual return in percent and you get roughly how many years it takes for money to double with nothing added. At 6% the rule says 12 years. The exact answer comes from logarithms, the natural log of two divided by the natural log of one plus the rate, which at 6% gives about 11.9 years. At 9% the rule says 8 years and the exact figure is very close to it. The shortcut works because it is tuned for the middle of the range people usually use, and it drifts at very low or very high rates. The callout on the result shows both numbers for the rate you enter, so you can see how close the shortcut is. Doubling time applies to a single lump sum. With monthly deposits the balance grows faster than that, because new money keeps arriving.
What this calculator assumes, and what it leaves out
Every figure on this page comes from the same few assumptions. Deposits are made at the start of each month and never skipped. The annual return is constant for the whole period. Nothing is withdrawn. The results are before tax and before fees, and they are in future dollars, not adjusted for inflation, so a large balance decades from now will buy less than the same number would today. Taxes on interest and gains depend on the account type and where you live, and fund or platform fees reduce the return you actually keep, so a real account will usually end below the figure shown here. If you want a rough sense of the effect of fees, lower the annual return by the yearly cost you pay and run the numbers again. To think in today's money instead, enter a return that is already reduced by the inflation you expect. Neither adjustment is exact, but both move the projection closer to what you are likely to see.
Frequently asked questions
Does it matter whether I deposit $500 at the start or the end of the month?
A little. This calculator assumes every deposit lands at the start of the month, so each one earns a full month of growth before the next arrives. If your transfer actually happens at the end of the month, each deposit misses one month of growth and the true balance would come out slightly lower. Over thirty years that difference is real but modest next to the effect of the return you assume or of contributing for a few more years.
What if I cannot keep up $500 every single month for 30 years?
Then the headline overstates what you would end up with, because it assumes no month is ever skipped. A practical way to plan is to run the number at the amount you are confident you can sustain, not the amount you hope for, and treat anything extra as a bonus. You can also pin this result on the comparison card and try a smaller monthly figure, which shows directly how much a missed habit costs over the same thirty years.
Is the result before tax?
Yes. Every figure on the page is before tax and before fees. How interest and investment gains are taxed depends on the type of account you hold and where you live, and some accounts defer or exempt tax entirely, so the calculator does not guess. If you expect to pay tax every year on the growth, a rough way to see the effect is to lower the annual return to what you expect to keep after tax and run the numbers again.
Why do I make deposits at the start of each month?
That is the convention the calculator uses, and it is stated in the method box so the result is never ambiguous. A deposit at the start of a month earns a full month of growth before the next one arrives. If your deposits actually land at the end of the month, the true figure would be slightly lower, because each deposit would miss one month of growth. Over long periods the difference is small next to the effect of the rate or the number of years.
Which compounding frequency should I choose?
Choose the one that matches how the account you are thinking about credits growth. Many savings accounts quote a rate that compounds monthly or daily. For an investment fund there is no formal compounding schedule, so monthly is a sensible default because your deposits are monthly too. The difference between monthly and daily is small. Yearly compounding grows a little more slowly for the same stated rate, because growth is credited less often during the year.
What does the comparison with simple interest show?
It shows what the same deposits would reach if returns were never reinvested, so each dollar earned interest only on itself and never on earlier interest. The difference between that total and the compounded balance is the part of your result that exists only because returns earned returns. Early in the period it is small. Over long periods it often becomes the largest part of the gain, which is why starting earlier tends to matter more than depositing a little more later.
How accurate is the rule of 72?
For the returns most people use it is close. The rule divides 72 by the annual return in percent to estimate how many years money takes to double with nothing added. The exact doubling time uses logarithms, and the result box shows both for the rate you enter so you can compare them directly. The shortcut drifts at very low or very high rates. It also describes a single lump sum, so with regular deposits your balance passes double the starting amount sooner.
Does the projection include inflation?
No. The balance is shown in future money, the dollars you would see in the account at the end of the period. Prices will very likely be higher by then, so that balance will buy less than the same number would today. To think in today's money, enter a return that is already reduced by the inflation you expect. That is an approximation rather than an exact conversion, but it gives a much more realistic sense of what the result could actually pay for.
How do I compare two plans?
Set the inputs for the first plan and press the pin button on the comparison card. The pinned values stay fixed while you change the inputs for a second plan, and the card shows the two side by side with the difference for the balance, the total contributed, the gain and the effect of compounding. You can also copy a link that reopens the page with your current inputs, which is useful for revisiting a plan later or for sharing it with someone you are planning with.
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